While Samuel Wesson-Quibell’s skate-infused line combined 90s streetwear culture with well-thought out dying techniques and experimental surfaces, Innovative sportswear was another defining factor in menswear, with those tackling the theme keeping in mind the need for sustainable alternatives and technical advancements. ![]() For Sizhu Chen, the reflection of space and identity came in the form of a seasonless collection that referenced the notion of global citizenship through avant-garde pieces. While Kuan Chien Chen looked to his past and hometown to inform his collection of adaptable clothing, Yujing Zhou touched on the landscapes of Mongolia and the intertwining of cultures as a result of migration. Credits: Roger Dean, UAL.Ĭulture was also presented through the perspective of migration by graduates, many of which particularly focused on its clash of identity. (From left) Kuan Chien Chen, Yujing Zhan and Shizhu Chen. Meanwhile, Yuzi Zhang tackled the businessman stereotype using the theory of Chinese flower arrangement to develop boundary-breaking silhouettes. Minxin Xu, for example, focused on male actors playing female roles, known as ‘Hua Dan’ in Chinese opera, particularly centering on their use of bondage which distorted their sense of gender and the perception of themselves. Some designers combined this idea of fluidity with their own perspective of culture. In contrast, Yucheng Jia’s collection, ‘A Softy Man’, centred around the current world, combining “rigid” masculinity with soft craftsmanship to achieve a sense of harmony through gender. Neil took cues from dystopian and apocalyptic worlds to form a non-conforming line of both masculine and feminine shapes, often with fluid structures that extended human features. Luke Neil, on the other hand, took the topic of gender to new heights, imagining a future world where queer identities can break off into a new environment through his own collection. (From left) Luke Neil, Yucheng Jia and Yuzi Zhang. Like many graduates, LCF designers challenged the concept of masculinity, some encouraging wearers to reconsider their authentic selves, as addressed by Cheer Zhu, while others drew on personal experiences to form tongue-in-cheek statements, as seen with Alexander Hayes’ collection. ![]() Menswear: migration, sports in space and new masculinity In terms of the runway show, Andrew Teverson, pro vice-chancellor and head of LCF, said the themes of sustainability and inclusivity dictated the collections, mirroring the drive to diversify and adapt the industry.įashionUnited has highlighted some of the standout trends throughout the graduate collections. The event kicked off LCF’s five-day period of events, through which it will be hosting a programme that spans design, film, photography, virtual reality (VR) and more. Participants descended from the institute’s bachelors in Fashion Design Technology for both menswear and womenswear. Different bodies of work, within a single body of work – shifting between disparate form languages.As graduate season comes to a head, London College of Fashion (LCF), a faculty of University of the Arts London (UAL) has hosted its annual undergraduate catwalk show for the class of 2023. ‘There’s a mirror of cinema in the collection, of witnessing fragments of a larger whole. ‘Although the collaboration is around the show, rather than the collection, we have been inspired by the collaboration, by his perspective on Prada,’ said Raf Simons, co-creative director of the house with Miuccia Prada. These short films were a collaboration with filmmaker Nicolas Winding Refn – who also collaborated more generally on the show’s mise-en-scène – and captured domestic scenes, from a woman taking off her shoes to the underside of a mattress. ![]() For their womenswear show, a darker, more unsettling mood – the white paper had been inverted to black through the windows, strange videos glowed. Earlier this year, Prada backdropped its menswear collection with a vast rendering of a paper house, complete with cut-out windows and doors (in its simplicity, it was reminiscent of a child’s drawing).
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